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But I used to be pleasantly amazed to seek out locals and backpack-toting vacationers among the combine—one afternoon, I squeezed on to a communal picnic table beside a German loved ones, where we all savored smoked trout and generous pours of grüner veltliner. Doubles from $650. —Siobhan ReidSituated in central Gemmayzeh, Arthaus is often a b